Sandhya Garg · Brand Pillar
Indian Hand Embroidery
Chikankari · Hand Beading · Thread Work · Appliqué · How to Spot Real Handwork
Quick Answer
The hand embroidery in our pieces includes chikankari, a Lucknow craft originally worked in white thread on muslin with about 40 named stitches, as well as hand beading with glass and metal beads, thread embroidery and appliqué. To spot real handwork, turn the piece over: hand embroidery shows small variations, while machine work is perfectly regular.
Every piece I make is printed and sewn in India, and many are hand-embroidered there by craftspeople whose skills take years to learn. That handwork is the part of a dress you can't see in a photo but notice the moment you hold it.
This is a plain guide to the techniques that appear in my pieces, how to tell real handwork from machine work, and how to look after it.
In This Guide
The Techniques, and Where They Appear
Indian embroidery is a huge subject, with a different tradition in almost every region. Rather than list them all, here are the ones you'll actually find in my pieces, named as they're named on the product pages.
| Technique | What it is | In our pieces |
|---|---|---|
| Chikankari | A Lucknow craft, initially white thread on muslin, with about 40 stitches (source) | Bloom, Elyse |
| Hand beading | Glass or metal beads stitched on one at a time | Fleur, Bella, Jewel, Jasmina |
| Thread embroidery | Floral and vine motifs worked by hand in thread | Marquis, Marie, Lily, Palais |
| Appliqué | Shapes of fabric cut and stitched onto the garment | Viola, Maya, Dahlia |
| Embroidery on handwoven cloth | Hand embroidery on woven geometric cotton, finished with velvet | Dauphine, Allie |
Block printing appears alongside embroidery on several pieces, such as the Elyse and Palais. It's a separate craft, where carved blocks are stamped by hand. I'll cover it in its own post.
A hand-beaded bodice can take longer than the dress it sits on.
How to Spot Real Handwork
The back
Turn It Over
Hand embroidery is less uniform on the reverse. Machine work is perfectly even and often stiffened.
Stitch length
Look for Variation
Tiny differences in stitch length and spacing are the signature of a hand.
Beading
Feel the Weight
Hand-sewn glass beads have weight and each sits slightly differently.
Language
Read the Label
"Embroidered" can mean machine. "Hand-embroidered" or a named craft like chikankari is specific.
For the cost of this work, see How Much It Actually Costs to Make Your Clothes. For the wider story of how we make things, see Slow Fashion, Without the Overclaiming and How a Drawing Becomes a Dress.
The Handwork Edit
Twelve Hand-Embroidered Pieces
From the latest collection and the archive, chosen because each has handwork you can see up close.
Chikankari: Lucknow's White-Thread Craft
Hand Beading: Glass and Metal Beads, Stitch by Stitch
Thread Embroidery
Embroidery on Woven Cloth
Most new-collection dresses run XS to 3XL; archive pieces, jackets and one-size styles vary. Stock is limited, so check the size selector on each product page · Size chart · Made to measure
Frequently Asked Questions
What is chikankari?
A hand-embroidery craft from Lucknow. According to India's Office of the Development Commissioner (Handicrafts), it was initially white-on-white on muslin and uses about 40 stitches, including bakhia, murri and phanda. Our Bloom maxi and Elyse kaftan are made with chikankari.
How can I tell hand embroidery from machine embroidery?
Look at the back and at the stitches. Hand embroidery has small variations in stitch length and spacing, and the back is less uniform. Machine embroidery is perfectly regular and often has a stiff backing.
How do you care for a hand-embroidered dress?
Dry clean or hand wash cold, inside out, and never wring. Store beaded pieces flat or folded rather than hung, so the weight doesn't stretch the fabric. Our Garment Care Guide covers each fabric.
Why does hand embroidery cost more?
Because it takes hours of skilled work per piece. A hand-beaded bodice can take far longer than the dress it sits on. I wrote about what that means for price in How Much It Actually Costs to Make Your Clothes.
Keep Reading
Process
How a Drawing Becomes a Dress
From sketch to fabric.
Cost
What It Costs to Make Clothes
A designer's honest breakdown.
Art
Gond Art
The painting behind our animal prints.
Care
Garment Care Guide
Make designer dresses last.
About the Writer
Sandhya Garg is a Project Runway Season 13 designer who won two challenges on the show and presented her collection at Mercedes-Benz New York Fashion Week. She studied womenswear at London College of Fashion and has worked at Alexander McQueen, Gucci, Liberty London and Alice Temperley. Her label has been featured in Marie Claire US, Elle, Cosmopolitan and Vogue online. Every print is drawn by Sandhya in Los Angeles and printed and made in India. Read her story.
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