My Project Runway NYFW Collection: The Decoy Show | Sandhya Garg

Showing at New York Fashion Week — and What a Project Runway Decoy Collection Is


Sandhya Garg — From the Archive

Showing at New York Fashion Week — and What a Decoy Collection Is

Project Runway Season 13 · Mercedes-Benz NYFW · The Secrecy · What I Made

The complete Sandhya Garg collection at Mercedes-Benz New York Fashion Week, ten looks shown side by side
The complete collection as shown at Mercedes-Benz New York Fashion Week. Ten looks in aqua, emerald, black and white, with acid yellow and iridescent blue at the evening end.

Quick Answer

Here is something most viewers never learn about Project Runway: designers who have already been eliminated still build and show a full collection at New York Fashion Week. They are called decoy collections, and they exist so that nobody in the audience — or watching the broadcast months later — can work out who actually made the finale. You produce an entire runway collection, present it at NYFW, and then say nothing about the outcome until the episode airs. This is what that was like, and what I made.

I competed on Project Runway Season 13, won two challenges, and showed a collection at Mercedes-Benz New York Fashion Week. That last sentence is the one people ask about most, and it is also the one with the most interesting mechanics behind it.

If you want the full account of the show itself — casting, the workroom, what the timings are really like, what I would tell anyone applying — that is in my complete insider guide to Project Runway. This page is about one thing: the collection, and the peculiar exercise of showing it.

What a Decoy Collection Actually Is

A reality competition has a scheduling problem. The finale is filmed at New York Fashion Week, but it airs months later — and Fashion Week is a public event with an audience, press and photographers in the room. If only the three finalists showed collections, the result would be common knowledge before a single episode of the finale had broadcast.

The solution is the decoy collection. More designers than have actually made the finale are asked to produce and present a full collection. Everyone shows. Nobody in the audience can tell who is a finalist and who is not, and the result stays sealed until broadcast. You do the same work, to the same deadline, in front of the same audience, without knowing what the footage will eventually be used for.

The work is identical

A full runway collection, sourced, drafted, fitted and finished to a fixed date. There is no lighter version for a decoy. You are building a real collection because it has to survive a real runway and a room full of photographers.

The secrecy is total

You cannot discuss the outcome with anyone until it airs. Months of it. Friends and family watch the finale not knowing any more than the audience does — which is a strange thing to carry around.

The show is completely real

This is the part people miss. Whatever the format needed, the collection went down a Mercedes-Benz New York Fashion Week runway in front of press and buyers. That happened, and it is on my CV because it is true.

I still remember the feeling of showing my work to the world, and the pride I took in representing India — and every woman in my family who made it possible.

Models walking the finale of the Sandhya Garg show at Mercedes-Benz New York Fashion Week, front row visible
The finale walk. The room, the front row and the photographers are all real — which is the part of the decoy arrangement people find hardest to believe.

Who the Collection Was Actually For

I was the Indian designer in that season, and I was very aware of it. Not as a burden — as a reason to be specific rather than generic. There is a version of that collection I could have made that would have read as safely international and offended nobody, and it would have been forgettable.

What I made instead came out of my mother and my aunts — the women who taught me what textile was for, who encouraged me to follow this, and who are the reason I ever ended up in a workroom at all. Colour, print and ornament that came from somewhere real. That instinct is still exactly how this label works, which you can see in where the prints come from and in how they are made.

The Collection Was Written, Not Just Drawn

Looking back at the photographs, the through-line is obvious in a way it may not have been at the time: the prints in this collection are made of words. Not a slogan slapped across a chest, but text used as textile — typography repeated at scale until it stops reading as language and starts behaving like a woven pattern, then breaking back into legibility when you get close.

Asymmetric dress in emerald and aqua with TAKE RISK TODAY repeated as an all-over print
TAKE RISK TODAY, repeated until it reads as texture. Emerald against pale aqua, split asymmetrically down the body — one shoulder covered, one bare.
Letter print top with cut-out sleeve detail over an acid yellow EXPLOSION print skirt
Two different typographic prints worn together, held apart by scale and colour. The sleeves are cut open and laced — construction used as ornament.

And on the white look in the lineup above, the text reads SIZES HAVE NO COLOR. I did not plan for that to become a mission statement, but it is a reasonable description of how this label has worked ever since — everything graded XS–3XL, in colour rather than in the apologetic neutrals extended sizing is so often given.

Black sequinned mini dress with iridescent fringed shoulder detail
The evening end of the collection: black sequin with iridescent fringing built out from the shoulder. Texture doing the work that a print does elsewhere.
Blue and green lattice dress constructed from raised geometric squares over black
A lattice of raised squares over black, in blue and green. Pattern made from what is left open — the same instinct behind the jaali screens the current prints draw on.

[SANDHYA: I have described what is visible in the photographs rather than what you intended — if the typographic idea had a specific origin, or if the collection had a name and a stated concept, two or three sentences here in your own words would make this section significantly stronger. Delete this box afterwards.]

Sandhya Garg speaking on the runway beneath the Project Runway logo at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week
On the runway at the end of the show. Everything above this point had to be finished, fitted and shipped before this moment existed.

The Collection Now · Artisanal · XS to 3XL

What That Collection Became

The runway pieces are archive, but the thinking behind them is the label. All verified in stock today.

Hand-Drawn Print & Ornament — The Runway Instinct

Marquis royal blue off shoulder hand embroidered maxi dress

5 Reviews · Hand Embroidery

Marquis Blue Off-Shoulder Maxi

Hand embroidery on viscose linen satin — the technique that carried through from the runway into the collection, done by hand because there is no shortcut that looks like this.

Marie pink mini dress with floral embroidery

Full Size Run · 28 In Stock

Marie Pink Floral Mini Dress

Floral embroidery worked into a mini — the closest current piece to the ornamented short looks in that collection, and one of the best stocked things we make.

Jahan maroon pre-draped saree dress three piece set

Full Size Run · Pre-Draped Three-Piece

Jahan Maroon Saree Dress

The most direct descendant of what that collection was arguing — an Indian garment solved as a construction problem for a Western wardrobe, rather than diluted into a reference.

Carolina pink one shoulder printed maxi dress

3 Reviews · Asymmetric Neckline

Carolina Pink One-Shoulder Maxi

An asymmetric neckline is a runway instinct that turned out to be a practical one — it finishes itself, photographs cleanly, and needs no jewellery to complete it.

Colour Blocking & Art Deco — The Graphic Side

Rene red midi dress with Art Deco colour blocking

Only 4 Left · Organic Cotton

Rene Art Deco Midi Dress

Art Deco colour blocking across four colours on certified organic cotton. The graphic, architectural side of the collection rather than the ornamental one. Four remaining.

Noor pink and yellow colour block midi dress with scalloped detail

Real Pockets · Scalloped Edge

Noor Colour-Block Midi Dress

Two colours meeting at a scalloped edge. Colour blocking is the fastest way to give a garment structure without adding a seam, which is why it recurs on a runway.

Zoe pink pleated asymmetric jacket dress

Full Size Run · Structured Pleating

Zoe Pleated Jacket Dress

The most runway-adjacent piece in the current collection — asymmetric front, structured pleating, outerwear construction on a dress. Built to be looked at from a distance.

Lucia blue tapestry jacket with net overlay

Full Size Run · Woven Tapestry

Lucia Blue Tapestry Jacket

Tapestry under net — two layers of surface, which is exactly the sort of decision you make when a garment has to hold up under runway lighting at fifteen feet.

From the Archive — Nearly Gone

Sunset pink ombre halter top in cotton

4 Left · XL Sold Out

Sunset Pink Ombre Top

A halter neck in 100% cotton with a hand-graded sunset ombré. One of the last pieces from this era still in stock — one unit in each of XS, S, M and L.

Sunrise pink and blue ombre halter top in cotton poplin

8 Left · XL Sold Out

Sunrise Pink Blue Ombre Top

The other half of the pair, in cotton poplin — pink graduating into blue. Ombré is a dyeing decision rather than a printing one, which is why these two never repeat exactly.

Current styles XS · S · M · L · XL · XXL · XXXL · Archive pieces in limited sizes as noted · Made to measure

Frequently Asked Questions

What is a decoy collection on Project Runway?

A full runway collection produced and shown at New York Fashion Week by a designer who is not necessarily a finalist. Because the finale is filmed months before it airs and Fashion Week is a public event, more designers show than have actually made the final — so nobody in the audience or the press can identify the finalists in advance.

Is the work any different for a decoy collection?

No. It is a complete collection built to the same deadline, and it is shown on the same runway to the same audience of press and buyers. There is no lighter version — the garments have to survive real runway lighting and real photography either way.

Did Sandhya Garg show at New York Fashion Week?

Yes — a full collection at Mercedes-Benz New York Fashion Week as part of Project Runway Season 13, in which she also won two of the show's challenges.

Can you still buy pieces from the runway collection?

The original runway looks were one-off samples and are not for sale. What continues is the approach — original hand-drawn prints, hand embroidery and heritage textile references — which runs through the current collection. A handful of early pieces remain in single units, marked above.

Where can I read more about the Project Runway experience?

The full account — casting, the workroom, the timings, what the judging is actually like and advice for anyone applying — is in the complete insider guide to Project Runway.

Keep Reading

About the Writer

Sandhya Garg is a Project Runway Season 13 designer who won two challenges on the show and presented her collection at Mercedes-Benz New York Fashion Week. She studied womenswear at London College of Fashion and worked at Alexander McQueen, Gucci, Liberty London, and Alice Temperley. Her Los Angeles label creates limited-edition artisanal dresses, resort wear and occasion pieces — featured in Marie Claire, Elle, Cosmopolitan, Vogue online and the Workshop at Macy's, in sizes XS–3XL with custom sizing available.

Project Runway · Mercedes-Benz NYFW · Vogue · Marie Claire

The runway ended. The instinct didn't.

Sandhya Garg is a Los Angeles boutique creating limited-edition artisanal dresses in original hand-drawn prints, hand embroidery and heritage textiles. Sizes XS–3XL, shipped from Scottsdale within 1–3 days.


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About the
author

Sandhya Garg is a Project Runway fashion designer. She studied and specialized in women's fashion at London College of Fashion, UK and has worked at Alexander McQueen, Gucci, Liberty London, Alice Temperley to name a few.

She has her own successful resort wear, vacation dresses, special occasion dresses, wedding guest looks, swim coverups label. While on Project Runway Season 13, she won 2 challenges and was fortunate to show her collection at Mercedes-Benz New York Fashion Week. The brand has been featured in Marie Claire US,Workshop at Macy's, Ftv.com, Elle Magazine, Cosmopolitan Magazine, Vogue online to name a few. 

She designs limited edition high end printed spring dresses, casual resort attire and swim coverups. Beautiful prints are inspired from around the world to be worn during travel, resort stay or cruise holidays.